With some fire under feet and luggage in hand nous saluons 2012

2012, I don't believe it. The past five years have fluttered past, one minute here and the next just memories. I was telling my friends how I still have vivid memories as an 8-year-old in Mill Ridge Intermediate School. I was sitting in the hallway with the other third graders waiting to board the school bus. I remember feeling so little compared to the 5^th graders that were walking along beside us. Fifteen years later, I find myself a third of the way done with Peace Corps service in West Africa. 

Wesan-lo, 2012. What a beautiful end to 2011 and encouraging beginning to 2012. This past year treated me kindly – the warm glow of nostalgia carried me into 2012, accompanied by the greatest presence of mind I have had in Togo thus far. Veronica and Ryan arrived in Badou on the 30th. They came in high spirits considering the soul suppressing bush taxi ride to get here. The next day, Dec 31^st, we went on our waterfall adventure.

We set out with Martin, counterpart and friend to a slew of present and past volunteers. The falls are the best source of revenue for the small village of Akloa. The people had the wits about them to charge cushy tourists to have their Discovery Channel/ National Geographic moment.  As we walked up to the falls, the three of us had the same reaction – we were not expecting the sight to be so SPLENDID. The size and purity of the fall was breathtaking. It was one of the first locations in Togo where there was not a single black sache to be seen. The water was clean and icy-cold; while the fall itself was about 200-300 feet. I don’t have enough dexterity with language to fully relate neither the sight nor the serenity it induced. It is a remote site that receives only occasional visits – the four of us were the only ones there for the duration of our visit. There are plenty of pictures of yours truly staring open mouth up at the water. We had a small lunch; chatted with Martin about how small the world turns out to be; and dipped our feet in the water (we probably collected some ill-intentioned parasites, whoops).

The Akloa Waterfall

We returned to Badou in the afternoon and prepared ourselves a nice New Year’s Eve meal of bean burgers and pineapple up-side down cake.  We welcomed midnight with a couple of traditions from Ryan and Veronica’s homes. For Ryan, we built three fires in front of my house. We jumped over them while saying a Persian poem to bring in the New Year with positive karma, releasing any negative energy. For Veronica, we ran around the house with our luggage to invite travels for our new year J J. And so, I welcomed 2012 with the reassurance that good friendships always produce.

Along with these good vibes, we also gained the customary 20 pounds over these past few days. I am so grateful to have such accuiellant Togolese friends. I have like three mommas who fed us constantly!! On New Year’s Day, we were invited to a brunch at my friend’s house. Just as we stepped on to my porch and I was reaching for the key, one of the girls from next door walked over with a tray of food – fufu and chicken sauce, enough to feed ten people. Well, we couldn’t just leave so we took it inside and nommed a few bites. After these morsels, we walked to Anonwe (30 min) – making room, you know. Here we sat with Augustine’s family. Ooooh, their cheer and good-nature is infectious J We were served large plates of foughnou (i.e. Togolese couscous). We also gulped down some palm wine, tasty stuff, pinky swear. Eventually feeling the lids of our eyes becoming heavier, we left for home.

At Augustine's for New Year's Day brunch

At 9am the next morning, we walked our sleepy bodies over to my neighbor’s house for more fufu and sodabe (fermented palm wine, ahhh!), what a breakfast. We came back to my house in need of a detox. Just as the fufu was beginning to settle, my hairdresser ladies brought over a large plate of rice and red sauce. Mind you, we had an invitation for 2pm at Chimen’s house. The amount of food had reached a daunting volume. We took a few bites of the rice - we talked of controlling ourselves but the rice was a little too tasty. At Chimen’s we were invited to fufu, rice, pork, and tchouk. Mercy me!! We arrived at my house envisioning having little to nothing for dinner – well maybe a few chocolate chip cookies. Thus arrived the end to my friends’ visit and the beginning to a new year in Badou.

My neighbor's rice, lunch #1

Chimen's family's compound is nestled on the hills rising above Badou

Two days after New Year’s Day and the party is still hoppin’. I just got back from a morning of two lunches. Golly, I feel like one of Tolkien’s pleasantly-plump hobbits! For tonight, I am praying for a single, sweet, simple coconut. 

These pictures were contributed by Ryan's camera. Mine rested comfortably uncharged in my room :/